Hirst arts 3D Heroquest board

[Figomurphy]

That's the plan Whitebeard. It also makes them more stable. I'll take Knightkrawlers idea too, off having uneven brick work, as if the bricks came away.

[Big Bene]

I would have a question regarding scale, sorry if it was posted before...

I see you use the 1 inch floor plates (am I right?).
So, one square size of the game board is theoretically 1 inch. But there are large gaps between the plates, so a distance across several squares is bigger - you have to add the width of the gaps.
I'm thinking about furniture here. If a bookshelf on the original board occupies 1 by 3 squares, the same model would perhaps occupy only 1 by 2 squares on your board, depending on the widde of the gaps. So how wide are they?

[Figomurphy]

I would have a question regarding scale, sorry if it was posted before...

I see you use the 1 inch floor plates (am I right?).
So, one square size of the game board is theoretically 1 inch. But there are large gaps between the plates, so a distance across several squares is bigger - you have to add the width of the gaps.
I'm thinking about furniture here. If a bookshelf on the original board occupies 1 by 3 squares, the same model would perhaps occupy only 1 by 2 squares on your board, depending on the widde of the gaps. So how wide are they?

Hi Bene,

Yes I'm using the one inch tiles.

As far as furniture goes it doesn't matter as I will be making furniture to the scale of my dungeon, please see attached.

It does make the board much bigger, but ir also gives much more room to play on.

Thanks for looking at the project. Any other questions or ideas/critisism would be appreciated.

[Big Bene]

Hi Bene,
Yes I'm using the one inch tiles.
As far as furniture goes it doesn't matter as I will be making furniture to the scale of my dungeon, please see attached.
It does make the board much bigger, but ir also gives much more room to play on.
Thanks for looking at the project. Any other questions or ideas/critisism would be appreciated.

Thanks.
I see now how you do it.
But still, could you tell us how wide those gaps are (= what the "scale of your dungen" really is)?

Still, great work!

[Big Bene]

Geofonos, my solution to the open door issue was to make doorways with black plastic inserts glued in with a hirst arts door cut in half and glued in the open position. Here is my picture from my thread.

I'm thinking for a while now if there is a better solution than a black surface.
Perhaps a small mirror would work, reflecting the floor etc. and giving the illusion of an opening. Of course when figures stand directly in front of the door, it could be a problem (I don't know, as the angle of view from the players will mostly from high above).
Another possibility would be to use lenticular foil. With all the cheap printing services growing everywhere today, it should be possible to archive. No idea if it would look good / be worth the efford...

[Figomurphy]

The gap between the squares is a third of an inch.

[Sparkymark]

Does using a third of an inch gap cause any problems getting wall lengths to work out? Im only asking because hirst arts have blocks in 1/4, 1/2 and 1 inch dimensions.

[Figomurphy]

No, none at all. The pieces used to bulid the wall are the same pieces (layed flat) that i use to build the wall on top of. So I lay these out first, then put in the tiles. As the wall pieces and foundation pieces are the same it means the scale works every time.

[IvenBach]

I look forward to this projects completion.

[Big Bene]

As far as furniture goes it doesn't matter as I will be making furniture to the scale of my dungeon, please see attached.

Do you have finished more than the fireplace? Can you upload more pictures? Or have I overlooked something?
Do you upscale the furniture to fit the dungeon? How does it work out (some furniture is already gargantuan in the original scale - I'm thinking of the alcheminst's bench here).
I see a table in your last posts. Seems you added benches to the table - is this to add size?