Ye Olde Inn

Hello all! Here with a project that will (hopefully) be as awesome as I've imagined it. I'm making a 3D version of the base game board, adding walls to the design. I will be utilizing Hirst Art molds for the majority of the project. I am also beefing up the tiles to 1", so as you can see below, with the walls and bigger tiles, this board is going to be massive! 36"x28" (plus a 1/4" border all around).

I tried to do this with pine wood before, but ran into an issue with that, so now I'm back to the cork board. Here is where I currently am with it:

This is how the board will be divided up (gray areas are walls):


Notice the size increase:


Newly cut cork board (Ran out of cork so that will be finished tomorrow):


I'm still waiting on the Hirst molds to come in. Tomorrow I'm finishing cutting out the board and will start gluing the boarder pieces down. I will update when I get all that done. Thanks for looking!

That's coming together nicely! I had a similar plan with 30mm tiles and thinner walls, but I scrapped the wall part in favor of a modular board.

gallery/album.php?album_id=12&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&start=60

I've been down the HA route with this a couple of times. The above is my considerably-tested design for a modular board.

I'm sure you have seen this:



Also, Daria, another Inn member from Florida, is selling her board:

the design itself looks very similar to the approach damien thevenin took with his heroquest reworking. http://www.damienthevenin.com/2012/05/02/heroquest-lepreuve-3/
people spotted a major flaw in it though. the corridoors (even with larger spaces) just arent wide enough to contain the 'big' monsters. with the walls blocking any possibility for the likes of the gargoyle or the ogres to move through. i wish you luck with your project. but thought i might point out a possible stumbling block that you may not of thought of until it comes to using it

I agree. You shouldn't step right smack in the middle of it. Trial and Error is the way to go, but you can avoid that particular one by making the walls 10 mm thick at most. That will leave almost a third of an inch at each side to actually move something in the rooms. Otherwise it will be too narrow, though that might depend on how high you plan your walls to be.

This is on my to do list, it will probably have to wait until I retire!!

How do you get around the problem with the dividing wall between the two 2x3 rooms?

Hey, good question, I never even noticed both projects I posted about cheated on that one

My modular board is currently the result of my third attempt to make one right. My modular tiles now fit perfectly together if cut out accurately.

There is only one way you can do it right:


Each square that makes up a walled-edge, has 1/2 of the wall's width intrude into it.

That super spangly HQ board uses a full square to space walls, but this lengthens hallways making the set incompatible with the Quest maps.


The point of building a modular board is to be able to use it exactly as if you weren't. If you have to make on-the-fly changes, you just created a constant pain in the ass instead of a cool-ass modular game board.

The Daria's husband (who I can only assume is named Trent or Tom) board is actually the better of those above, because the spaces align. However, it uses full-width walls against full-width walls, which results in the need for spacing additions being placed on the corners and intersections.

What I did was increase the size of each square (I reduced the size of some trappings so that boot laying around wasn't freaking huge) to 3cm. I also do not use erect walls, because they're just not fun at all, ever. They may look cool, but playing with them absolutely sucks. I made 3mm cubes into "end-caps" to represent single and double-blocked squares.

I spent a couple months figuring this all out.

Sjeng wrote:Hey, good question, I never even noticed both projects I posted about cheated on that one

The individual room tiles I uploaded are not quite correct, but all of these cut-sheets are. The tiny rooms issue is just a matter of having the right width barriers.

Because mine are paper-craft, I was able to set every tile to be a precise dimension. I then added the walled edges where needed, but then re-sized the image back down to actual length. This makes any squares not joined with a wall subtly larger or longer. This same effect can be achieved with plaster bricks only by overlapping the walls (as described).