Ye Olde Inn

I have a 30 mm board and I removed the overhead stuff. Even if the Heroquest border is beautiful, it just took to much table space.

I'd say function over form. Print your board without the border to give your players much needed space. Perhaps you could include the border art on the supporting 2x4s.

Daedalus wrote:I'd say function over form. Print your board without the border to give your players much needed space. Perhaps you could include the border art on the supporting 2x4s.

My son weighed in on this and he wanted the boarder.

I've printed and assembled half of it so far. And here is my progress on painting. No fine details yet, but the top row of rooms are getting close!

Awesome! Border looks better, your son is right. Would you charge to do us a board too? Or would happily buy the STL files

Very beautiful indeed!

Yes this is really awesome! An you are so quick with these kinds of projects!

Thantos wrote:Awesome! Border looks better, your son is right. Would you charge to do us a board too? Or would happily buy the STL files

I'm not building another one, but you can certainly have the STL files. I will be posting them on Thingiverse when I have the completed product to photograph.

I'm almost done painting the rooms on the first half, and the rest of the board should be completed printing in the next few days. I'm also waiting for some magnets to arrive so that I can see how the two back boards fit together before I glue the tiles down on the second half.



I am really happy with how well the rooms match the original board (er... rather it matches my more vibrant re-print of what must be a washed out original board?).
However I am having trouble matching the room in the bottom right. My original just looks yellow, but the re-print is more rich and darker and has a gold look to it. My paints are limited but that has not stopped me from matching everything else I wanted to.

How would you paint this bottom Right room?

I brushed a medium brown on top of the black base (which kept it dark in the recesses). Then I applied a mossy green and hit it with a yellow and an off white yellow. Something is missing, though I'm tempted to just leave it.

The bottom right on the photo?
on my board it is some yellow with a hint of brown. Not smiley-yellow but more ocre yellow.

You're close. For the final step, mix in a tiny dash of black into a yellow base should get you that slight greenish tint the ochre has. It depends on what yellow you have.
If the result is too yellow, mix in a tiny amount of blue and red and then maybe you're gonna have to lighten it up and desaturate it a little by mixing in a tiny amount of white.

Anderas wrote:The bottom right on the photo?
on my board it is some yellow with a hint of brown. Not smiley-yellow but more ocre yellow.

yes. I did not think the look at an original board until just yesterday. My recollection was that my re-print was virtually identical, just a little off and I really liked it.

So I did some investigation and pulled the hi-res board scan (cyber333-hq-board = 90Mb) into GIMP to see what had happened. If you crank up the Saturation and move the Lightness on the Yellow channel down a bit, you get something very close to my reference board. It just looks more alive and having seen it this way for a while now, I feel like this is closer to what the original art likely looked like before mass production (well, except for the missing yellow, that is likely from the printer that produced my board).

Here is a rough shot of my target so you can see where I'm headed:

knightkrawler wrote:You're close. For the final step, mix in a tiny dash of black into a yellow base should get you that slight greenish tint the ochre has. It depends on what yellow you have.
If the result is too yellow, mix in a tiny amount of blue and red and then maybe you're gonna have to lighten it up and desaturate it a little by mixing in a tiny amount of white.

Yes, thank you! I will try very soon.