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Reaper Bones III

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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby clmckay » Wednesday December 7th, 2016 7:10pm

I'm not the biggest fan. It's bendy, flexible fabric. kinda feels like a Harding rubber.

Scale is all over the place. They have built in bases, so you have to address that if wanting them to match.

To me, nothing like GW or HQ minis. Don't know about sde.

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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby IvenBach » Wednesday December 7th, 2016 8:43pm

clmckay wrote:I'm not the biggest fan. It's bendy, flexible fabric. kinda feels like a Harding rubber.

Scale is all over the place. They have built in bases, so you have to address that if wanting them to match.

To me, nothing like GW or HQ minis. Don't know about sde.


I second what clmckay said. I'm not a fan of the bases they come on, excepting a couple that looked good with it. If you're looking at some and can get them for a cheap price go for it.


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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby LordZeke » Wednesday December 7th, 2016 8:52pm

I have been re-basing the ones i have painted. I like them, no primer required, they take paint well. They are very flexible. Similar to the material the D&D adventure games use but a little softer.


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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby knightkrawler » Thursday December 8th, 2016 2:53am

It's PVC, very bendy stuff.
Cutting straight is incredibly easy, getting rid of moldlines incredibly difficult.
I have only painted my Purple Worm, which was no problem at all.
It's true what they say: Bones don't need no primer.
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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby cornixt » Thursday December 8th, 2016 10:41am

Cutting is easy, filing is very difficult, so moldlines are often hard to remove. Paint doesn't stick as well as on regular polystyrene plastics, and just pools up if it is watery.

Models are very durable, have so much flex that they don't break.

Re-basing is easy, I have mostly just put them inside the round Reaper bases and filled the gaps with hardening clay.


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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby Schmidt » Thursday December 8th, 2016 11:30am

A Round file is the best way to remove mold lines. It is still quite a task!


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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby Goblin-King » Thursday December 8th, 2016 4:12pm

Thanks for the input guys. It doesn't sound like bones is for me as I don't like when the minis are too soft. Oh well...

In the same vein... I once bought a "finecast" resin mini from Games Workshop.
It was incredibly soft and bendy. Anyone gotten a GW resin model in recent times? Have they started making them in harder material or are they still soft as wool?


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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby knightkrawler » Thursday December 8th, 2016 4:17pm

I know what you mean. I had an Elf Spellsinger. What a pesky pansy piece of flimsiness.
Since then... no.
Haven't they learned their lesson and switched to multi-part plastics for character models altogether?
Are they still producing Finecast at all?
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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby clmckay » Thursday December 8th, 2016 5:27pm

I got a couple Finecast models last year.

Not too bad really, especially if you paint them.

They are still flexible, so not hard plastic. With Bones, as has been said, you can really bend them and they won't break. The Finecast isn't *quite* that bendable. If you bend it beyond a certain point it snaps.

I think it's a bit harder to glue myself.


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Re: Reaper Bones III

Postby cynthialee » Thursday December 8th, 2016 5:51pm

The soft ones can take a set and get off kilter too easy. But you can fix it if it wasn't to long ago the mini was stored wrong. Run it under hot water and form it into proper position, then flash it with cold water for a minute. I have fixed some really bad ones by immersing in boiling water, reshaping then flash chilling under ice water then place in the freezer for a day or two. This will fix up all but the worst of malformed PVC mini's.

I just don't buy Reaper Bones anymore. To much a pita. I prefer metal.
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