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North American Card size - details

Discuss card making and cards you have made.

North American Card size - details

Postby Kurgan » Saturday July 13th, 2019 8:31pm

So I finally just thought "measure the dang card" and it turns out it's 55mm wide x 87mm tall. It's a paper card without a really glossy finish. Comparing them to a plastic coated poker playing card they are a lot more dull or matte finish but with a tiny bit of shine.

The front of the cards are yellowed a bit (possibly with age, they're "off white" if nothing else), and the drawings on the front side are in brown ink. And of course it has rounded corners (a "corner chomper" doesn't provide as small or narrow corners as these, they are very slight rounds). The backs are of course in color with the various suites (fire spells, water spells, air spells, earth spells, chaos spells, treasure, artifacts, monsters, no "equipment" in the US edition).

So if you're looking to make your custom cards like "the real thing" that's it. Any other variations? I see the UK cards are small, have brown borders (with the "tattered scroll" look, and most cards
have a different pattern to them for this "ratty edge" effect) and the cardbacks have a white border, and they're smaller (not sure how much smaller... maybe the size of those "cut out" cards on the ROTWL and KK artifact cards at the end of the Quest books?). The Monster cards are brown and white while the UK ones have a reddish color to the "fur." The Japanese cards have black and white drawings (black ink instead of brown) and the Monster cardbacks have a violet/purple fur and a big black border (that is off center). The NA cardbacks tend to be a more "realistic" style that looks like a painting, vs. the more "comic book" illustration style used by the other regional versions. But all use illustrations on the front that remind me of "Lone Wolf" sketches (if anybody remembers that series).

My custom cards vary from this to different degrees, but where possible I'm going to try my next batch to be a closer match to the "real thing," not to try to fool anybody, but so they match better with my current set during actual play.
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