Ye Olde Inn

by **cynthialee** » April 21st, 2015, 12:06 pm

Let me throw in this about Reaper:
Their plastic minis often will be out of whack and need some help. They get put into a package wrong and take a wrong pose.

Dip the mini in boiled water for a few seconds, remove the mini from the water and set it to rights and then immerse it in ice water. Then place the mini in the freezer for an hour.

Your mini will try and go back to its out of shape start but it will never get as bad as when you first needed to put it back to the right position. I tend to over compensate my bends keeping in mind how the plastic will try and return to its out of true slowly.

I actually agree with most of you about GW paint. If I could start over, I'd give Army Painter a go. But for some reason all the hobby shops in my area seem to be all GW and only GW. I just gradually built up a good paint supply buying in little bits locally. But I've decided I hate the ink pots. And most of them are too unecessarily thick. Unless it's a metallic color, in which case it's way too watery.

Thanks for the info, however! I'll try to do some soapy washes and use the paint I have. Until they are gone...when I can then buy an AP set! :mrgreen:

Oh by the way... (perhaps I should start another thread for this) ... airbrush recommendations? Brands to steer clear of? I've never airbrushed before... but decided 'Dragons Don't Share' deserves nothing less. So I gotta invest....

by **Baylor_OgreBane** » April 21st, 2015, 5:32 pm

Thats because GW have a monopoly going on the hobby.

Leave the metalics over night with the lid open, that might help to thicken them up. Thick paint is good as you can always water it down to what you need and it goes further.
Good luck with using them up and getting more, i still have a few pots from when I was a young 'un that I use!!!
Tamia and humbrol do a nice acrylic set also, Its good to be diverse, variety is the spice of life!

not to much washing up liquid or you will get bubbles!!!!!!!

I'll check the brand of my airbrush, its a nifty little one, I have two of from the same make, a pen and a slightly larger pen with a bottle rather than a small ink hopper. Get the flow right and you will be well away

by **cornixt** » April 24th, 2015, 10:09 am

knightkrawler wrote:Base - thicker, well covering regular paint for basecoats, thin down well in general. Worth buying as basecoat colors if you tend to layer for highlights.

Layer - regular paint, very good for layering and wet blending. Some unique, beautiful colors in the range.

Sidenote: For every Base paint there's two Layer paints to highlight the base with. Built in triads for the meek of imagination who don't know how to mix paints. Out of the two lines, just pick what you like and have a go with it. GW want you to spend 10 Euros for three paints to paint one color. Plus the wash, of course.

Dry - very thick, textured paint for drybrushing only. Useless. Don't buy and if you have, toss them away.

Texture - bullshit, in principle same as Dry. Paint your fence with that crap. By the way, all paints of the line are of the same consistency. Basically, it's just sand with different colors mixed in. Imagine how useless it is to pay money for somthing like that.

Shade - thin wash/ink-like paint. Thins down for glazing very well. Great, great line.

Glaze - thin yellow, red, green, and blue for tinting surfaces and bringing shade, mid-tones, and highlights together.

Technical - Some very unique, actually useful things in the range, but also some utter bullcrap that is just made to pull money out of your ass.

Did I forget anything?

Thanks, at least I know which ones to avoid for when I have no other choices.

by **Ragnar IronFist** » April 24th, 2015, 9:56 pm

I did the boiling water/ice water thing to a slew of my minis today. Worked like a charm! Didn't even have to bend most of them, they automatically take their shape again after a few seconds in boiling water. Something very satisfying about seeing limp skeleton legs and centaur spears become erect faster than a teen with a hot substitute teacher.

So..still taking suggestions on airbrush pens...anyone? Anyone?

by **cynthialee** » April 25th, 2015, 1:12 am

Ragnar IronFist wrote:I did the boiling water/ice water thing to a slew of my minis today. Worked like a charm! Didn't even have to bend most of them, they automatically take their shape again after a few seconds in boiling water. Something very satisfying about seeing limp skeleton legs and centaur spears become erect faster than a teen with a hot substitute teacher.

So..still taking suggestions on airbrush pens...anyone? Anyone?

And here I was thinking my post went unnoticed and for naught.

by **knightkrawler** » April 25th, 2015, 1:27 am

Ragnar IronFist wrote:I did the boiling water/ice water thing to a slew of my minis today. Worked like a charm! Didn't even have to bend most of them, they automatically take their shape again after a few seconds in boiling water. Something very satisfying about seeing limp skeleton legs and centaur spears become erect faster than a teen with a hot substitute teacher.

So..still taking suggestions on airbrush pens...anyone? Anyone?

I don't airbrush myself so you should take my post with a grain of salt or two.
But i do watch miniature painters on youtube who use the airbrush. Every last one of them I like the results and techniques of uses the same paints I use for brush painting.
Watching the experts I recommend the Vallejo Model Air and Game Air lines which are made specifically for airbrushing.
The other brands I'd recommend for brush painting (the other Vallejo lines, Citadel, Reaper, Formula P3, Army Painter, Revell Aquacolor) are also appropriate.
The most important thing is knowing how to use the airbrush itself and how to thin down the paints.
Personally, I'd steer clear of paints I wouldn't wanna use with the brush and, as long as I don't have a second airbrush for that purpose, anything that needs to be thinned down with alcohol (like the Vallejo Alcohol-based metallics and Tamiya).

Ragnar IronFist wrote:Something very satisfying about seeing limp skeleton legs and centaur spears become erect faster than a teen with a hot substitute teacher.

I had a hot blonde tight-assed 26-year-old teacher, full secretary clothing style, in 8th grade PHYSICS. I'll repeat that, PHYSICS. It was completely unfair and inappropriate to serve 14-year-old boys such a thing as a teacher in any subject. But PHYSICS! I shudder when I think back. I think it was all a dream.

by **Redav** » April 25th, 2015, 2:44 am

knightkrawler wrote:I had a hot blonde tight-assed 26-year-old teacher, full secretary clothing style, in 8th grade PHYSICS. I'll repeat that, PHYSICS. It was completely unfair and inappropriate to serve 14-year-old boys such a thing as a teacher in any subject. But PHYSICS! I shudder when I think back. I think it was all a dream.

Haha... I think everyone has a hot teacher story. We had a bucks / stag party for a mate late last year and almost all the guys (about twenty of us) went to the same high school but probably spread across four or five grades and the conversation got onto teachers and I mentioned one particular name which caused a chorus of yeahs and hmms...

Oh, she was a science teacher too