Tips on Reaper Bones?

[Ragnar IronFist]

So it's about time I start painting my Reaper a Bones II haul. My stash of paints is pretty much all GW Citadel. So naturally I see a few spots online that say citadel is pretty much the one brand of paint that doesn't play well with Bones. Anybody ever try it? If I need to get all new paints, I might try Army Painter. Cheapest but still good reviews and heard it does well on Bones.

Any tips/recommendations/warnings/reviews on Citadel, Army Painter, or whatever else with regard to Reaper Bones would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

[Redav]

So naturally I see a few spots online that say citadel is pretty much the one brand of paint that doesn't play well with Bones.

If they're primed, would that still be the case? Or do people find this but it's because they don't put down an undercoat?

Does anyone know if / when their second Bones KS models will be available post KS?

[Baylor_OgreBane]

I have painted a few bones, they are in the gallery. my paint collection is made up of mostly of old late 90's early to 2000's paints and they work fine. One of the selling points to bones is that they don't need under coating, and its true, But I would recommend that you wash them in warm soapy water first and leave to dry before painting. To make sure any mould release agents are washed off as this is the main cause of the paint not taking.

[knightkrawler]

I think it's bullshit that Citadel paints don't go well with Reaper Bones.
Maybe the Citadel WAY, on the other hand... you know, that Primer - Basecoat - Wash - Rebasecoat - Edge Highlight *lemony goodness* they teach...
That may not be so suited for the spindly Bones.

And everything Baylor said.
The one Bones mini I've painted - a Purple Worm - was a great experience. No primer, paints covered incredibly well somehow...I didn't use regular Citadel paints, but some washes, and I can't complain.

[cornixt]

Bones doesn't like anything watery, watery paint beads much more than styrene and metal models. The old citadel paints I have go on okay as long as I don't add water. You need to undercoat black for some paints, and I've had mixed results with not undercoating white.
Not tried the current Citadel range, it's like they have invented their own language to confuse people into buying the same colour in various different types. I have no idea which of their paint types is just regular paint.

[Baylor_OgreBane]

The only thing I don't like with bones is that at times the detail isn't as crisp because of the polymer they use to cast with.

gallery/image_page.php?album_id=15&image_id=1487

It took me ages to try and figure out what the goldie locks bunny was, it was my gf that finally spotted it and told me. Might still have gotten it wrong though, I ended up having to paint the face and things on as there was next to no detail on the mini.

[whitebeard]

My paints are all new GW bottles. I scrub the models with a toothbrush and even let them sit under soapy water for an hour or so. I need to go heavy on the first coat (usually black) before I trust the paint to stick. Unlike GW plastic, HQ plastic, and white metal figures, my bones minis end up looking shiny, like I used a gloss enamel to paint them! Anybody else see this happening?

[Baylor_OgreBane]

Bones doesn't like anything watery, watery paint beads much more than styrene and metal models. The old citadel paints I have go on okay as long as I don't add water.

WASHING UP LIQUID ADDED TO THE PAINT!!!! breaks surface tension.

My paints are all new GW bottles. I scrub the models with a toothbrush and even let them sit under soapy water for an hour or so. I need to go heavy on the first coat (usually black) before I trust the paint to stick. Unlike GW plastic, HQ plastic, and white metal figures, my bones minis end up looking shiny, like I used a gloss enamel to paint them! Anybody else see this happening?

A little at times but as you can see mine come out pretty matt. It could be the Black undercoat that you are painting on, or possibly just possibly the scrubbing with the tooth brush is making the surface smoother so the paint reflects better.

[knightkrawler]

Bones doesn't like anything watery, watery paint beads much more than styrene and metal models. The old citadel paints I have go on okay as long as I don't add water. You need to undercoat black for some paints, and I've had mixed results with not undercoating white.
Not tried the current Citadel range, it's like they have invented their own language to confuse people into buying the same colour in various different types. I have no idea which of their paint types is just regular paint.

There are the following labels:

Base - thicker, well covering regular paint for basecoats, thin down well in general. Worth buying as basecoat colors if you tend to layer for highlights.

Layer - regular paint, very good for layering and wet blending. Some unique, beautiful colors in the range.

Sidenote: For every Base paint there's two Layer paints to highlight the base with. Built in triads for the meek of imagination who don't know how to mix paints. Out of the two lines, just pick what you like and have a go with it. GW want you to spend 10 Euros for three paints to paint one color. Plus the wash, of course.

Dry - very thick, textured paint for drybrushing only. Useless. Don't buy and if you have, toss them away.

Texture - bullshit, in principle same as Dry. Paint your fence with that crap. By the way, all paints of the line are of the same consistency. Basically, it's just sand with different colors mixed in. Imagine how useless it is to pay money for somthing like that.

Shade - thin wash/ink-like paint. Thins down for glazing very well. Great, great line.

Glaze - thin yellow, red, green, and blue for tinting surfaces and bringing shade, mid-tones, and highlights together.

Technical - Some very unique, actually useful things in the range, but also some utter bullcrap that is just made to pull money out of your ass.

Did I forget anything?

[Baylor_OgreBane]

The new GW paint range just isn't worth the money.